Tag: Hanoi

Cha Ca La Vong

Let’s step back in time to a few years ago and a completely imaginary pub quiz.  Let’s suppose I am poised on the brink of winning the meat tray.  Believe it or not, a meat tray is a valid prize in Australian pubs.  I won one once. It was awesome. 

Cha Ca
Cha Ca

it was a whole tray of steaks and chops and sausages and, if I recall correctly, some very nice bacon.  You may scoff, but it’s actually a pretty good prize.   As long as you’re not a vegetarian. 

And here comes the question.

And for the tray of meat “What is a Cha Ca La Vong?”

“Oh……:A Latin American Dance?”

“No, wait a moment…isn’t it the name of the slutty girl from Grease?  The one stole the dance competition from Sandy?”

 Ba-Bow.

No, Cha Ca La Vong is not the name of the best dancer from St Bernadette’s (with the worst reputation) or the type of dancing she may engage in. 

It is a super delicious Vietnamese dish of fried fish with turmeric, dill and tomatoes.

I first came across this dish last year when I did the awesome Hanoi Street Food Tour with Mark Lowerson from Stickyrice.  You can read about that here.

Cha Ca
Cha Ca

 When I had Cha Ca with Mark it was a soupy style.  And it was super, very fragrant and possibly my favourite dish (apart from the a-may-zing coffee with yogurt) of the whole tour. 

This year however, I discovered a new way to have Cha Ca.  We read about a restaurant called The Gourmet Corner.  And being cautious, we dropped in one afternoon for a cocktail.  I like to call it scoping out a restaurant before commiting myself.  You can call it afternoon boozing if you wish.

Well, one meal later this became our favourite place to eat in Hanoi. I think we pretty much ate there every night after that.   Fabulous food, great cocktails, and 360 degree views of the city. And all as cheap as chips!!!!

Cha Ca La Vong - Gourmet Corner Hanoi
Cha Ca La Vong – Gourmet Corner Hanoi

Their Cha Ca?  O. M. G.  One of the best things I have ever eaten. In. My Life. 

First up, the combination of fish and dill and onion took me right back to my first ever time in Hanoi, my first ever full day in Hanoi and the tour with Mark.  Kind of like Proust’s madeleines.  But fishy.  And second -So, so  tasty.  Perfectly cooked fish, perfectly spiced, the most amazing flavour of the dill and the tomato and the turmeric….I ate this EVERY night for pretty much a week.  And I had such a craving for it the other night, I decided to make my own!

 Two disclaimers.  One.  My version, whilst being pretty damn good, is not a patch on either version I had in Hanoi.  There really is something about eating in situ that can make any meal super special. But, that being said…it doesn’t totally suck either.  It’s actually pretty tasty.  And so fun to eat! Particularly if you have a group of people.  Set it all out and people can wrap and roll what they want.  It would be best served outside on a tiny chair and table as at a Bia Hoi Bar and washed down with some icy cold beer but failing that, your own home or garden would also be fine. But do have that ice cold beer!

Cha Ca
Cha Ca

 Which leads me to my second disclaimer.  It’s an absolute bastard to cook.  Not difficult but there are a lot of moving parts.  Don’t even try to do what I did and make it all in the same day. Do the pickles at least one day ahead.  I would also try to do the tomato and dill mixture the day before too and just heat it up when you need it. 

Cha Ca Quick Pickled Vegetables

I couldn’t find the right sort of rice paper rolls and the ones I had turned into a hot mess so I  I wrapped my Cha Ca in lettuce leaves.  They added a nice crunch.  You could also use tortillas to make it into a kind of Vietnamese Fish Taco.  

Alternatively, ditch these all together and make a noodle bowl – I had one of these with the leftovers the following day and it was super. 

Cha Ca Noodle Bowl
Cha Ca Noodle Bowl

I’ve added a few photo’s from Hanoi.  I’m really starting to love that city!  And I think even possibly more that Saigon is a great food city.  Food is everywhere and in such fresh abundance.  I hope you get a feel of the city from these…looking at them and eating the Cha Ca really took me back to our holiday.  And got me thinking about the next….

Hanoi Street Sellers
Hanoi Street Sellers

 

Hanoi Street Food
Hanoi Street Food – Suckling Pig and Duck
Hanoi Coffee Shop
Hanoi Coffee Shop

 

Hanoi  - Freshly Made Tofu
Hanoi – Freshly Made Tofu

 

Hanoi - Street Market
Hanoi – Street Market…and a fabulous rose dress

 

Hanoi - Banana Shop
Hanoi – Banana Shop

 

Hanoi Chickens dressed with roses
Hanoi Chickens dressed with roses for a festival day

 

Hanoi Cooking School
Hanoi Cooking School – So Proud!

 

Tanned and Happy At The Gourmet Corner
Tanned and Happy At The Gourmet Corner
Hanoi - Street Scene
Hanoi – Street Scene from a Bia Hoi bar.

 To make your week fabulous why not cook something from a place you love?  And don’t forget to tell me all about it!

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Hanoi…I don’t care, I love it!

Most of the Vietnamese people I know come from the South and their reaction when I mentioned I was going to Hanoi fell into two categories.

Actually, cancel that.

There was one main response which was a pause, followed by a frown, very shortly followed by a comment along the lines of “WTF do you want to do that for?”

Hanoi
Hanoi

There were however two distinct subcategories behind this response. The first was “Oh my God, you’ll be robbed / stabbed / murdered in your bed. The people are rude, the traffic is awful, and  the food is terrible.”

The other reason was “There’s FA to do there…”

Before leaving I mostly put this down to a little bit of North / South rivalry.  However, this malaise seems to have also infected the people of Hanoi. The first sentiment was echoed by the girl who checked us in to the hotel who whispered to us “You’ll find the people here are not very polite.”

“But you’re lovely” I said.

She shook her head. “Other people” she said.

Huh.

The first question most people ask you in Hanoi is “When you do leave for Halong Bay / Sapa?” Thereby reinforcing the second response.  It’s like no one can believe you actually want to be there.

Well guess what? Wrong and wrong peeps, wrong and wrong!

We had a wonderful time in Hanoi – we lived to tell the tale, found the locals friendly and, even though we were there longer than expected we found plenty of things to do. Just walking around and admiring the fabulous colonial architecture can take a few hours.

Hanoi Opera House

And the Hoa Lo Prison is also definitely worth a visit.  This  is where ex American Presidential candidate John McCain was held prisoner for many years.

The Hoa Lo Prison aka The "Hanoi Hilton""
The Hoa Lo Prison aka The “Hanoi Hilton””

My photo and the name Maison Central give this place a rather welcoming look, a bit like a swanky hotel.  This may have helped to give the Hoa Lo the nickname of the Hanoi Hilton.

Hanoi Hilton

 

Believe me, after spending a few hours inside and learning about the history and some of the awful things that happened within these walls, this is one hotel where you really do not want to be a guest!

Inside Hoa Lo Prison
Inside Hoa Lo Prison

One of the best things I did in Hanoi was the Street Food Tour hosted by Mark Lowerson. A long time resident of Hanoi, Mark knows all the places to get great tasting authentic food, which would be unlikely to be on most tourists’ agendas. On top of this, Mark is a charming and knowledgeable host and despite the weather being against us (it was bucketing down the whole time) this tour was one of the highlights of Hanoi for me and something I will definitely do again.

Just one tip, if you are planning on doing this tour (and you absolutely should) – skip breakfast. No, skip dinner the night before and skip breakfast!!!

You can find Mark at:  http://stickyrice.typepad.com

and on twitter at https://twitter.com/stickyinhanoi

I did the tour in July and on occasion, still find myself debating over which dish I liked the best. The Bun Ca which was fish with dill and tomatoes made with tea flavoured noodles? The crispy prawn fritters?  The freshly made yoghurt with local coffee?  Of the many dishes we tasted, they were definitely my top three although it was all delicious!

Bun Ca
Bun Ca

 

Bahn Tom
Bahn Tom

For some culture, we went to Ho Chi Mihn’s Mausoleum.  Don’t let the long lines here put you off, they move pretty quickly.  And who doesn’t want to see a perfectly preserved cadaver?  You can also visit his house and see the rooms from where he conducted the war. You need to be on your best behavior though – no smirking or pointing or behaving in any manner that is not utterly respectful whilst viewing Ho.

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
Ho Chi Minh House

Whilst we’re on the topic of showing some respect…how about, we try to adopt that as a general rule of travel?  This is particularly directed at the young gentleman (and I use the term in its loosest form) who burst into the office of the travel agent I was in the middle of having a discussion with, blind drunk at midday, shirtless and trying to haggle over a coolie hat.

One, dude, I was already there…wait your damn turn.

Two, no one needs to see your disgusting sweaty beer belly. Put on a shirt.  And some shoes.

Three, I don’t know how you managed to get that drunk that early…but don’t do it again.  It didn’t make you look cool.  It made you look like an idiot.  And if the people of Hanoi were as bad as everyone said they were – that kind of obnoxious behavior would have got you stabbed. And you would have deserved it.  It’s almost a shame they weren’t!

Ok, rant over.  One of my favorite shops in Hanoi was the Sun Tailor.  They make all sorts of gorgeous clothing, purses, jewellery, hair accessories, etc with a cute retro sort of feel to them..  Great for gifts…or for yourself and it’s all as cheap as chips!

The button necklaces and bracelets are just adorable and the headband with pictures of Italian cities like Rome…

Sun Tailor Wares 1
Sun Tailor Wares 1

Venice…

Sun Tailor Headband
Sun Tailor Headband

And….oh…erm…places that sound like they may be Italian..are just gorgeous….

Sun Tailor 3
Sun Tailor 3

Another cool thing about Hanoi are the street bars.  By day, these are normal shops.  By night, the grills go down, plastic tables and chairs make an appearance, someone rolls out a cooler full of beer and some snacks and voila, the street corner becomes a bar!  We visited the same corner bar in the old quarter several times and by the end of our stay, far from being hostile, the owners were greeting us like old friends!

Hanoi Street Bar 1
Hanoi Street Bar 1

 

Hanoi Street Bar 2
Hanoi Street Bar 2

For a day trip, we went to the Perfume Pagoda, which was for me, one of the highlights of the trip.  It gets a bad write up in a few of the guides mainly for the over zealous nature of the women hawking cold drinks, beer, food etc both along the river and at the base of the mountain.  Ok, this is kind of annoying…but try not to let this jade your perspective. The Pagoda itself is worth this.

And you gotta hand it to the women who row the tourist boats.  They are tiny and each boat fits six tourists for an hour long ride to the pagoda and another hour long ride back.  It was scorching the day we went and believe me…that woman rowing us deserved every cent of the hefty tip we gave.  Although, if I had been her, I would have been a little snippy with her country women who were rowing alongside trying to sell us food and drink.  In fact, whilst I don’t speak a word of Vietnamese, I swear our rower said something to them along the lines of “For the love of God, can you just sod off?  It’s stinking hot and these bastards are fat enough without you getting them to cram beer and Mars Bars down their gobs.”  It must have been her tone…

 

Boat Trip to the Perfume Pagoda
Boat Trip to the Perfume Pagoda

The only way to get to the Pagoda is by boat, then, after you land and fight your way through the ladies hawking their wares.including some quite scary looking rats in cages…you can either get a cable car up the mountain or walk.  Some of our group chose to walk up the mountain to the pagoda, I went by cable car.  Firstly because it was a cable car….I have no idea why I love them so much, I just do!  And you know…walking up a mountain in blazing heat could give you some sort of ecstatic religious moment…or heatstroke.  You choose!

 

Cable Car to Perfume Pagoda
Cable Car to Perfume Pagoda

The actual Pagoda is magnificent and really has that atmosphere of being a sacred space.  Instead of being a Pagoda as I know it – a structure like the one we visited in Hue, the Perfume Pagoda is a series of rock formations set in a cave at the top of a mountain. The air is dark and cool which is a lovely respite from the blazing sun and just adds to that “otherworldly” atmosphere.

Perfume Pagoda
Perfume Pagoda
Perfume Pagoda 1
Perfume Pagoda 1
Perfume Pagoda 3
Perfume Pagoda 3

Perfume Pagoda 2

 

We never got to Halong Bay as the bad weather prevented it. However, the upside of that is that it gives us a great reason to travel back to Hanoi!

I’m going to spending my week looking at flights to Hanoi, have a fab one whatever you get up to!

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