Category: World Cooking

Frikkadels – The Danish Girl Goes To Sri Lanka

I am reading The Danish Girl for  book club.  I am not that far into the book  – so there are  no spoilers here for anyone who may be concerned but there was a part very early in the book that blew my teeny mind and most likely not at all for the any of the reasons you might be thinking!

 

Danish Girl

Here is the passage:

Even with his eyes closed, standing shirtless in front of his wife felt obscene.  It felt as if she’s caught him doing something he had promised he would avoid – not like adultery, but more like resuming a bad habit he’d given his word he would quit, like drinking aquavit in the canal bars of Christianshavn or eating frikadeller in bed”

– David Ebershoff, The Danish Girl

In Sri Lankan Burgher cooking, we have a delicious meatball called a Frikkadel.  The name was too similar to the frickadeller found in The Danish Girl for me not to undertake some extensive research.  (Otherwise known as googling the word Frikadeller.) And yes, they are pretty much one and the same.

Knowing this also helped to fill a gap in my knowledge about these meatballs.  I have long wondered why they are flavoured with dill which is not used that much in Sri Lankan cooking.  But it is used a lot in Scandinavian Cooking.  Mystery solved!

I cooked some ages ago and never got around to posting them so here are my Friikkadels.

FrikkadelsSri Lankans would not normally eat frikkadels in bed but they would be quite commonly handed around at a drinks party as a “short eat” which is what we call finger food.

Here is the “official” description from the delightful ( but totally demented) Daily News Cookbook, a bastian of Sri Lankan Cooking.

“The term “short eats”  was originally used to describe the dainty sandwiches, dry cheese or other savoury biscuits, potato chips and miniature sausages accompanying the drinks at sherry or cocktail parties which usually began at six o’clock in the evening and lasted for a couple of hours at the most….

The chief requisite of short eats is that should appeal to the eye as well as the palate; but they must also be easy to eat –  that is, small enough to be conveyed to the mouth with the fingers or, at the most, a small wooden pick”

Frikkadels2My frikkadels were eaten as short eats with a dollop of date and tamarind chutney and a garnish of coriander. However, the best, best, best way to eat your frikkadels – better than a short eat or even in bed is as part of a lampries.

Part of a what you ask?  One day, when I have an infinite amount of time on my hands I will make one for you.  And your minds will be blown by the awesome deliciousness of them.  It’s unlikely to happen in the foreseeable purely because of the seven billion things that need to be included.  For the lampries is a little pack of many items of Sri Lankan delciousness.  Traditionally this would be cooked and served in banana leaves but nowadays alfoil is also used.  The lampries contains:

  • Ghee rice
  • Lampries Curry – made with chicken, lamb beef and pork.  I know it sounds mental but it’s so good!
  • Frikkadels
  • Brinjal Pahi – which is an eggplant pickle
  • Coconut Sambal
  • Prawn Blachang – which is a dried prawn pickle type thing.  Ish.

Now do you see why I will most likely never make this myself? Not only do you need to have all of those things.  But they all have about twenty ingredients each.  To make lampries tis a labour of love.  Which is why we buy them frozen. The best are straight from the kitchen of a little old Sri Lankan  lady.  Next best is from your local Sri Lankan cafe or restaurant.

And here is one that I ate at The Dutch Burgher Union when we were in Sri Lanka last year:

Lampries with Frikkadels

My favourite way of eating a lampries is to eat one of the frikkadels first.  Then the rest.  Then the second frikkadel as the very last thing.  Kind of like the cherry on the top!

Frikkadels came to Sri Lanka from the Dutch who borrowed them from the Danes. There is also a South African version also via the Dutch.  Frikkadels can also be found in many other countries of Northern Europe.  This is certainly the little meatball that could!

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Frikkadels

Delicious Sri Lankan /Dutch / Danish meatballs

Ingredients

Scale
  • 500g minced beef – do not use the leanest type, you need a higher fat content to keep the frikkadels moist
  • 1 large red onion, finely chopped
  • 1 large garlic clove, finely chopped
  • a piece of ginger about the same size as the clove of garlic, grated
  • 1 tsp black pepper
  • juice of 1 lime
  • a large pinch of ground cloves
  • a pinch of cinnamon
  • a pinch of grated nutmeg
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 2 sprigs of dill, finely chopped
  • 2 eggs
  • 1 cup of bread crumbs for coating
  • Oil for frying, ideally coconut but peanut will do

Optional Ingredients

  • Lime wedges to serve.
  • Coriander leaves to serve
  • Chutney or sweet chilli sauce to serve

Instructions

  1. Separate the eggs.
  2. Mix the minced (ground) beef, onions, ginger, garlic, pepper, lime juice, cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg dill and salt thoroughly with the egg yolks.
  3. Form into balls the size of large marbles.
  4. Beat the whites of the eggs with a fork just enough to break them up but without frothing.
  5. Dip the balls into the eggs whites then roll in the crumbs so they are well coated.
  6. Heat the oil in a deep pan until boiling then fry the frikkadels a few at a time.
  7. When cooked through they should be crisp on the outside and juicy on the inside.
  8. Keep hot, draining on kitchen paper.
  9. Serve with a wedge of lime, chutney or as part of a lampries.

Why not try some at your next party?  Or in a lampries?  Or even in bed?

The Danish Girl does not open here until the end of the month.  Have any of you seen it?  What did you think?

Have a fabulous week!

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Sussex Pond Pudding

In a weird coincidence, the last three cookbooks I have read have all contained recipes for Sussex Pond Pudding. I had never heard of such a thing  before and suddenly, it was stalking me!  The universe was absolutely, positively telling me something.  And I took that message to be that I should make one.  Because that’s what the universe does right?  Offers a gentle guiding hand to point you in the direction of where you need to be going.

But first, somewhat of a digression.  The cognitive bias that had me seeing Sussex Pond Pudding everywhere has a name – The Bader-Meinhof Phenomenom.  It occurs when a word, name or thing comes into your attention and shortly afterwards it reappears with what seems like greater than normal frequency.  I’d love to know if, after reading this any of you randomly hear the words Bader-Meinhof or Sussex Pond Pudding over the next few weeks.   Let me know if you do.

Sussex Pond Pudding – The Inspiration

My most recent sighting of a Sussex Pond Pudding (kinda makes it sound like the Loch Ness Monster) came from Big Table, Busy Kitchen by Allegra McEvedy.

I find Allegra McEvedy immensely likeable and all of her recipes that I have tried have been successful.  She describes the Sussex Pond Pudding as follows:

“This classic English Steamed Pudding is definitely of a superior nature to most of it’s steamy brethren…it’s the only steamed pudding I ever make and I need to make it at least once a winter”

High praise!

The next reference came from  The National Trust’s Complete Traditional Recipe Book by Sarah Edington.

She offers some the following explanation of the name.

“Sussex and Kent extend their rivalry to puddings – the most famous being Sussex Pond Pudding and Kentish Well Pudding.  The former consists of a suet crust enclosing butter, brown sugar and a whole lemon, and in the latter currants are added.  Either way, when the pudding is cut open, a rich sweet syrup, the well or pond  – oozes out.”

The final book (which was actually the first book I read containing those three words was Laurie Colwin’s Home Cooking.  Which you can read more about here.

You may have noticed that thus far, you have not seen any of my photos of the Sussex Pond Pudding.  I thought I would intersperse my pictures with Laurie’s commentary.

A Digression on Suet

By the way, Laurie Colwin calls it Suffolk Pond Pudding.  For the sake of consistency, I will refer to it as Sussex Pond Pudding throughout.

But first.  Can we talk about suet? OMFG – was a more disgusting substance ever invented?  This has to figure right up there with the civet pooping coffee and that bird embryo they keep getting people to eat on Survivor and The Amazing Race.  I had to look it up because I was actually not too sure what it was.  I wish I hadn’t

Suet – raw beef or mutton fat, especially the hard fat found around the loins and kidneys. 

I am really sorry British people who eat this stuff all the time but that is just disgusting.  Raw sheep kidney fat.  Exactly what I want in my sweet pudding.

Turns out you can buy (fake?) suet in the supermarket and it looks kind of like breadcrumbs of butter.  So not as bad as you might think.  Just try not to think where those buttery breadcrumbs come from.

And that pastry?  Was a bastard of a thing to make.  And I was not at all happy with the finished product. It was very both heavy//thick and fragile.  Getting it to line the pudding bowl was a nightmare.

Suet Pastry

Sussex Pond Pudding  – The Commentary

And now, over to Laurie Colwin.

“Sussex Pond Pudding although something of a curiousity sounded perfectly it splendid….it never occurred to me that nobody might want to eat it”

No one wanted to eat mine either.  The fussiest eater in the world took one look at it.

“What is that?”

It’s a Sussex Pond Pudding”

“It looks disgusting”

He comes from Kent.  Maybe I should have added currants.

Suet Pastry2Back to Laurie:

“My suet crust was masterful.  When unwrapped from it’s cloth, the crust was a beautiful deep honey colour”

Mine too, at least at the bottom, which became the top where all the butter and sugar had soaked into the pastry.

Sussex Pond Pudding

“My hostess look confused.  “It looks like a baked hat”, she said.

“It looks like the Alien,” my future husband said.

“Never mind, ” I said.  “It will be the most delicious thing you ever tasted”. 

Sussex Pond Pudding2

“I cut the pudding.  As Jane Grigson had promised, out ran a lemon-scented buttery toffee.  I sliced up the lemon which was soft and buttery too.  Each person was to get some crust, a slice of lemon and some sauce.  What a hit!  I thought.  Exactly the sort of thing I adored.  I looked around me happily and my happiness turned to ash”

The buttery lemony sauce was by far the best thing about this . It was actually quite delicious.  And the soaked buttery pastry was not awful either.

Sussex Pond Pudding4

 

My host said: “This tastes like lemon-flavoured bacon fat”

“I’m sure it’s wonderful, ” said my hostess.  “I mean, in England”.

The woman guest said “This is awful.”

My future husband remained silent.

Mine did not taste like bacon fat, maybe because I used the fake supermarket suet. If you got  the right ration of sauce (lots) to pastry (not much) it was actually not too bad.  It was not the “weird inedible sludge from outer space” Laurie Colwin describes however it is also not something I will feel compelled to make at least once a year like Allegra. Or ever again.

Although I am going to have to find something to do with the rest of that suet!

Sussex Pond Pudding5I guess that sometimes, instead of being that gentle guiding hand, the universe is a smartarse little jokester who is six steps ahead of you laying down banana peels for you to pratfall on.

And then, just as you are shaking your fist at it, it gives you a little wink and a grin and holds out its hands in a let’s be friends gesture.  In my instance, remember a couple of weeks ago  I said this:

I have a real hankering to go back and watch some early XFiles. I have yet to scratch that particular itch but it’s there….

And lo and behold, I was flicking channels on Saturday night during an ad break in, ok, I admit it, The Hunger Games and look what was on my telly:XfilesJust a couple of minutes before this scene Mulder was examining Scully’s butt for alien probes.  It was AWESOME!  I can’t wait for next Saturday!

Have a great week!

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Braving Brioche

They say you should do one thing every day that scares you.  Well, this week we are jumping ahead to the letter H in the A-Z of cooking and I am doing something that terrifies me.  The reason for the leap from E to H and the sudden boldness on my part will become apparent in the next post….Huh…instead of a cliff hanger ending I think I just gave you a cliff hanger starting!  Anyway, want to know what scares me?  That third episode of Limetown still makes me shiver  but cooking wise, one of the things that frightens me is bread.

Brioche1And not only did I made bread this week but ooh la la, I made French Bread!  Brioches to be exact.  And they were very good!  They looked kinda like brioches, they smelled like brioches, and they tasted like brioches!  I cannot tell you how pleasantly surprised I was because the manner of making seemed odd.

I have never made brioche before but maybe, possibly this is how it is done.  It seemed to work!

You made your bread dough then divided it into 12 pieces which you rolled into balls.  Then you pinched off a small ball of dough from each of those so you then had  24 balls, 12 small and 12 larger.  The recipe then called to make a hole in the large ball and stick the small ball inside.  I found it easier to flatten the large ball and wrap it around the small ball.

BriocheThen into the baking pan for a rest and rise:

Brioche CollageAdd a glaze, pop in the oven and a short while later:

BRIOCHE!!!!

Brioche2If I’d known brioche was going to be this easy I would have been making it for years!  I love that high shine glaze!  And to copy a phrase I learned from the Great British Bake Off, the bread also has “good crumb”.

Even though I had specifically made these for another purpose, I couldn’t resist having a little taste.  Brioche and apricot jam for afternoon tea?  Yes please!

Brioche and Jam

As for the rest of them?  Stay tuned.  You’ll see in a couple of days!  And it’s worth the wait!  Meantime, get your brioches ready!

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Brioche

Ingredients

Scale
  • 1 tbsp plus 1tsp sugar
  • 3 tbsp hand hot water
  • 2 tsp dried yeast
  • 200g plain flour
  • 1/2 tsp salt
  • 2 eggs, beaten
  • 50g butter, melted and cooled

Egg Glaze

  • 1 egg
  • 1 tbsp water
  • pinch of sugar

Instructions

  1. Dissolve 1/2 tsp of sugar in the water. Sprinkle over the yeast and whisk it in with a fork. Leave in a warm place for 10-15 minutes or until the mixture is frothy.
  2. Sift the flour and salt into a bowl. Mix in the rest of the sugar, the yeast mixture, the eggs and butter.
  3. Mix by hand until the mixture leaves the side of the bowl.
  4. Knead on a lightly floured board for 5 minutes.
  5. Put the dough in a warm place and leave to rise for about 1.5 hours or until it has doubled in size and springs back when lightly pressed.
  6. Preheat your oven to 230C.
  7. Divide the dough into 12 portions. Break off a small bit of each portion and roll into 12 small balls.
  8. Roll the remainder of the portions into 12 larger balls.
  9. Poke a hole in each of the larger balls with your finger and place the small ball inside. Close the hole by pressing the dough together.
  10. Place the balls in your baking tin and leave to rise for about an hour or until light and puffy.
  11. Mix the ingredients for the egg glaze together and brush over the brioches.
  12. Place in your preheated oven for 10 minutes.

Have a great week!

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Oeufs A La Cantalienne & Greens with Horseradish Dressing

What do you do when, you are about 30 seconds away from your front door and realise that you have left two essential ingredients for your planned dinner in the fridge at work?

Oeufs A La Cantalienne

First, swear.

A lot.

Then drum up an emergency supper of Oeufs a La Cantilienne and serve that with a Salad of Bitter Greens with Horseradish Dressing!

Happy days!

How eight hours can change you.  I started the day off being super organised!  For dinner, I had planned to celebrate Meatless Monday by making the cauliflower and chickpea “meat” balls from the Meatball book which is our latest selection from the Tasty Reads book club.  I’d read the recipe that morning and realised I was short a few ingredients – namely basil and parsley for the green sauce which was going to accompany the meatballs.

I had tasted this green sauce on a visit to the Meatball and Wine Bar and it is SENSATIONAL.  As far as I was concerned, no green sauce, no non-meatballs.   You can kind of see the sauce in this picture.  The man in the street looks pretty taken by them too!

Meatballs with Green SauceBut I digress.  We’ll get to the meatball book in due course.  Today is all about the eggs.  And the cheese and the horseradish dressing.

Ouefs a La C2Anyway, back to my super-organised morning, I was early that day so  I stopped in at the supermarket beside the station and bought my herbs.  And stored them in the work fridge for the day.

Where they stayed.

What to do?  I wasn’t going back to get them.  So, another dinner needed to be pulled out of  the ingredients I had in the fridge and the pantry.

Ouefs a La Cantalienne4Now I ‘m going to let you in on a secret.  I actually had the ingredients for a very posh and trés français version of the Oeufs a La Cantalienne.  Because I plan my food within an inch of my life it was on my menu plan for later in the week.   But you could also make a perfectly delicious version of this from ingredients you are likely to have in your fridge.  It’s a great emergency meal!

Oeufs A La Cantalienne WhitesSo what are Oeufs a La Cantalienne?  It’s a French Baked Cheesy Eggs.  The version I was going to make had duck eggs, comté cheese and créme fraiche.  But it would be equally delish with normal eggs, cheddar or swiss (gruyere) cheese and cream or sour cream.  Of course the flavour will be slightly different with each variation but hey, it will all be good!!!

oeufs a la cantalienne5What’s more, these will be on the table in about 20 minutes.  Just enough time for you to pour yourself a glass of vino and make your Bitter Greens Salad with Horseradish Dressing.

Oeufs a la cantalienne6And you know.  Eggs, cheese and cream.  That’s never going to be bad. About 12 minutes in the oven is about perfect.  I got a bit distracted by a reality cooking show on the telly something really important and end up cooking mine for about a quarter of an hour but in another plus, this recipe is pretty forgiving!

oeufs a la c cookedThe bitter green salad with horseradish salad is a perfect accompaniment to this.  I used rocket (arugula), kale, spinach and radicchio in mine but whatever greens you have in your fridge will be fine. This is not a meal to be too precious about!

Bitter Green Salad with Horseradish DressingThe horseradish dressing is….OMG…just make it.  Make it now!!!  So good.  So, so good. I have made this salad, or versions of it about a million times since – with eggs, avocado, steamed beans and broccoli, grilled salmon…and everytime it has been amazing.  It’s my new favourite thing.

Bitter Greens With Horseradish Dressing

And, in a reversal of the initial dilemma of leaving things at work, there was a morning when when I got to work and realised I had left the horseradish dressing for my salad in the fridge at home. Well, there was no eating the salad without the dressing, I kept it in the fridge,  bought my lunch and brought the dressing in the next day!  That’s how good this dressing is. If it wasn’t totally unseemly, I would be licking it off the spoon. (I totally did that when no one was looking).

Oeufs A La Cantalienne

Oh, and when I finally made the non-meatballs?  Total  let down. The green sauce was pretty good but the balls were like the worst falafel I’ve ever eaten.

I should have just made more eggs!

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Oeufs A La Cantalienne And Bitter Greens With Horseradish Dressing

A great emergency supper. The Oeufs A La Cantalienne can be made as fancy or as simple as you like and the salad has quickly become a firm favourite!

Ingredients

Scale

For the Oeufs A La Cantalienne

  • 2 duck eggs //eggs
  • 30g Comté cheese//sharp cheddar//gruyere
  • 1 tbsp crème fraiche //sour cream //cream
  • pinch of nutmeg (optional)
  • For the Bitter Greens Salad
  • 2 tbsp mixed toasted seeds – I used pepitas, sunflower seeds and flax seeds
  • 2 cups bitter greens – I used rocket (arugula), kale, spinach and radicchio
  • 1/2 red onion thinly sliced

For the Dressing

  • 3 tbsp creme fraiche
  • 2 tbsp fresh grated horseradish or 1 tbsp prepared horseradish
  • 1 tbsp champagne or white wine vinegar

Instructions

For the Ouefs A La Cantalienne

  1. Preheat oven to 220°C.
  2. Grate the cheese and scatter half over the base of a buttered individual baking dish.
  3. Separate the eggs, keeping yolks intact.
  4. Whisk whites to soft peaks. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg.
  5. Fold in the remaining cheese.
  6. Pour mixture into the baking dishes and make an indentation in the middle of mixture.
  7. Place an egg yolk in each indentation.
  8. Add a 1/2 tbsp of crème fraiche by the side of each yolk.
  9. Bake for 10 minutes or until golden and set.

For the Salad

  1. Toss the greens and onion together.
  2. Whisk the crème fraiche, horseradish and vinegar together until smooth.
  3. Just before serving, toss through the greens and onion.
  4. Top with the toasted seeds.

Notes

  • The dressing will make much more than you need for one salad. You’ll want to use the extra on everything you eat over the next week!
  • If you are making this for more than 2 people you can cook it in one large baking dish, you might just have to adjust the cooking time to be a bit longer.

Nutrition

  • Serving Size: 2

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The Margaret Fulton Cookbook 10 – Quiche Lorraine

A quiche is an open-faced tart with a savoury custard filling.  It was originally made with bread dough but short pastry has been substituted in modern recipes.

The pastry should be rolled as thinly as possible…there should be a lot of creamy filling on very little pastry.

– Margaret Fulton

Both of these look pretty good.  But I am very fond of a quiche so more is pretty much more for me!!!  But I totally understand why most people would prefer the understated elegance of the modern photo

Quiche Lorraine
Quiche Lorraine

Here’s the recipe!

Quiche Lorraine recipeHope your week is fabulous.

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