World Cooking Archives - Page 15 of 30 - Retro Food For Modern Times

Category: World Cooking

22
May
2020

Quince Salami

I bought a fresh quince to make the quince blancmange and then realised I did not need it. So, what on earth was I to do with a quince? I got out my recipe spreadsheet and searched for quince. In the end, I narrowed my search down to three things – Quince Salami, a Chocolate, Quince and Almond Tart, and a Chicken Liver Pate with Pickled Quince. Turns out I had everything I needed for the quince salami already in the house. Even with restrictions here easing a bit, we are still being told to stay at home as much as possible. So why go out to shop if you don’t have to?

The Quince Salami is a version of the membrillo or quince paste that you would serve on a cheeseboard. What makes it a little more interesting is that you can add the same fruit and nuts that you would serve on your cheeseboard into the “salami”. The idea of it is that when you cut through your quince roll, the chunks of fruit and nuts resemble the flecks of fat and flavourings that you see in a regular salami. The resemblance would be even closer had my quince turned the dark red that some quinces do when they are cooked.

The reason quince turn red when they cook is due to tannins in their flesh. Mine did not have enough tannin so only turned an apricotty colour which was quite beautiful but not that red I was looking for. It tasted so good though! And is a really cute and different addition to a cheeseboard.

I LOVED this with some blue cheese. The sweet fruitiness of the salami with a hint of crunch coming from the almonds was perfect against the salty blueness of the gorgonzola. I cannot wait to try this with some brie or Camembert when I venture out to the shops again! The fruit I used were dried sour cherries and some dried apricots.

However, if you are not a cheese lover and / or have a sweet tooth, another way you can serve a quince salami is to roll it in some sugar, then slice finely and serve as a petit-four with coffee. This is the serving suggestion in the recipe I used. I thought it was already sweet enough so took it in a more savoury direction.

The Recipe

The recipe for Quince Salami comes from the book Classic British Cooking by Sarah Edington. She traces the history of quince marmalade, upon which this is based to way back to Tudor times! Here it is:

Would you prefer this as a sweet dish or as a cheeseboard accompaniment?

Have a great weekend everyone. Stay safe!

20
May
2020

Going Brazilian

categories: Brazil, World Cooking

So, I did something a bit different last week. Cooking wise I assure you! One of our Melbourne restaurants, Atlas Dining is surviving lockdown by sending out food boxes based on a theme. Included in the price of the ingredients are a series of masterclasses with the chef, done via Youtube showing you how to cook each meal. There are also written instructions for those who prefer to read rather than watch. I chose the Brazilian Food box because I have never eaten Brazilian food and thought it would be a great way to introduce myself to that cuisine, learn something new and eat some delicious food along the way. Win, win, win!

I was so excited when the box was delivered! It was like food Christmas! The food was all of the highest quality and there was a LOT of it. I ordered the singles box because the Fussiest Eater in the World was working on most of the nights I intended to cook. However, there was enough left over each night for me to have for lunch the following day.

And, to be honest, I am still eating some of the veggies!

Sausage Feijoada

Meal one was a Sausage Feijoada (pronounced Fey-zwah-dah) for those like me who have no knowledge of Brazilian food! This is apparently one of the most common dishes in Brazil. It is a stew usually made from mixed meats and black beans. Our version was made from sausages and it was 👌. It was served with a little salsa made with the most delicious guava dressing!!! This was my favourite meal of the week. It was so tasty and only took about 20 minutes to cook.

I am sure that a traditional Feijoada would take hours to cook and so this was a “dumbed down” of it but TBH, I don’t care. I was looking for an entry into the food of Brazil and this provided the perfect way to dip my toe in without getting too overwhelmed! Atlas had also done a lot of the work by pre-preparing the black bean mix which was delicious!

Pumpkin Vatapa

This was meant to be the meal for the third night but I decided to move things around because the Fussiest Eater in the World was going to be home on night 3. He is not really one for vegetarian food in gen and pumpkin in particular! He does like a steak however so the switcheroo occurred.

Again, this was quick and easy and so delicious. It’s kind of a Brazilian curry. It is late autumn here and these meals were perfect comfort food for cold nights! The vapata was served with a little salsa and two mixes sprinkled over the top. The salsa brought some freshness, the mixes brought some crunch. All in all this was delicious!

Because I made these out of order, I did not realise that one of these mixes on the top was also meant to be used with the beef dish and I used it all on the Vatapa. My suggestion here would be that if you are doing something different, to watch all the videos before cooking anything just so you know exactly what to use and when!

Carne Churrasco

Night three was a gorgeous marinated steak with parmesan polenta and a corn salsa and more of that brilliant guava dressing! It was a bright, colourful and luxurious way to finish off a superb three nights of food!

I loved cooking out of the Brazilian box, so much so that I have already signed up for the American box which is coming out in a couple of weeks! As soon as lockdown is over I definitely want to try some more Brazilian food. And who knows, one day when all of this is over maybe even travel there to sample it in situ!

Tell me, have you eaten Brazilian food? If so what can you recommend? Are there any must-haves I need to try? What about the desserts? I might try to find some delivery options!

Also, for any Americans reading this what would you include in an American food box? Two meat meals and one vegetarian? I would like to see how close your ideas line up with what’s in the box!

All props to Atlas Dining for such an innovative solution to life in lockdown! The meal box could not have been more welcome! At a time when all the days seem the same it brought a bit of vibrance that made me feel a little like this!

Have a great week everyone! Stay safe!

15
May
2020

Not Quite Seeni Sambol

categories: 1970's recipes, Good Housekeeping World Cookery, Onions, Sri Lanka, Vegetables

Seeni Sambol is a Sri Lankan side dish, served as an accompaniment to rice, curries and hoppers as per the photo below. It is an integral component of lampries, which despite Covid-19, mum and I made this year at Easter, as per our normal habit. I made the seeni sambol this year, something we never really do as it takes so many onions! I used 8 onions to make mine and in the end, there was not enough for all our lampries and we ended up having to use a shop-bought version as well!

Please don’t judge my hoppers, I am playing with a recipe which I will post on here as soon as I have it right! The main ingredient of Seeni Sambol is onions. Put very simply you caramelise them down add some spices and voila – there you have it.

Our 2020 lampries. This is a SriLankan meal consisting of ghee rice, lampries curry, eggplant pickle,seeni sambol, prawn blachan and frikadeller which mum and I cook annually. We make enough to last the year, packing individual servings into foil packets and putting them into the freezer to reheat and eat whenever the mood takes us!

What I am trying to say is, that I know a bit about Seeni Sambol. So, when I saw that there was a recipe for it in the Good Housekeeping World Cookery Book, 1972 I was intrigued. My gut feel is that books this old do not do justice to “ethnic” recipes. But for the sake of the blog, I was willing to give this one a go.

But, because WordPress loves a subheading, let’s break it down a little.

The Title

The actual title is fine. In that, all words are spelt correctly.

It’s the subtitle that made me pause.

And call my mum.

“Are you meant to just eat Seeni Sambol with prawns?”

“No. Why?”

“No reason”.

So fail on the title. Seeni Sambol actually means sugar sambol and relates to the sweetness of the caramelised onions and the sugar you add towards the end of cooking to balance out the flavours. No prawns at all. Whatsoever.

The Ingredients

There are two very non-traditional additions in these ingredients. Tomatoes play no part in seeni sambol and neither does milk.

You probably could not have got fresh milk in Sri Lanka in 1972 – it would have either been evaporated or coconut milk. Either way, I inadvertently left the milk out of my version. I added the tomatoes though.

There is also an ingredient that is used in a traditional Seeni sambol called a Maldive Fish which is a cured dried fish which adds protein and umami flavours to the Seeni Sambol If you want to make this, and you cannot find Maldive fish, you can substitute Asian fish sauce. Or you can leave it out altogether which is what they do in vegetarian versions.

Overall though, the ingredients are pretty close to home. Just forget the tomatoes and the milk if you want to keep it real!

Oh, and btw? No prawns.

The Method

So, it all seems legit until…WTF why are they talking about Prawns? There were no prawns in the ingredients so why are there prawns in the GD recipe???

There are no prawns in Seeni Sambol. And that’s not just me saying that. That comes direct from my mum. And I may be an idiot who knows nothing but she knows Sri Lankan cooking!

So, this is kind of a shambolic recipe. However, if you ignore the magical prawns that do a disappearing act in the ingredients and reappear in the method and the milk which has no place here what so ever. this is not a bad recipe. I didn’t even mind the tomatoes in the final dish!

Here is the full recipe:

And here is a better one from chef Manu Fieldel. This is a vegetarian version so does not contain the possibly hard to find Maldive Fish.

Hope you are having a good week! Stay safe friends…the light at the end of this tunnel seems to be appearing!

06
May
2020

Tijuana Sunset and Buenos Noches – Two Evening Themed Cocktails

categories: Cocktail, Mexico, Tequila

Ola people of the internet! Today we are celebrating all things Mexican with a couple of cocktails, the Tijuana Sunset and the Buenos Noches both from Cantina. Regular readers would know what I have set myself a task to cook through this book by the end of the year. Readers from the way back would know that this book and I have a troubled past. Too cheffy, too complicated, too many hard to find ingredients have been my complaints of this book in the past.

Let’s kick things off early in the evening with..wait for it…we need some sort of fanfare…ah…here he is…

Da da dadada…TEQUILA!

The Tijuana Sunset

This is billed as “A sophisticated take on the tequila sunrise”.

Okay fine. But IMHO, the only thing that makes a tequila sunrise any good is that gorgeous ombre effect of the grenadine and the orange juice. And if you are going to call that drink a sunset then that ombre effect needs to run the opposite way to the sunrise right?

Well, it is totally missing from the Tijuana Sunset so I guess the way the gradient goes is immaterial right?

Now, bear in mind I made both of these drinks in iso at a time when even generally easy to come by ingredients were scarce on the ground. Blood orange juice was an impossibility. I decided to sub in Blood Orange Soda instead of Blood Orange Juice and Soda. Did this affect the colouring? Possibly. However, as there is no picture in the book I suspect that they also did not get that beautiful colour array.

Looks may be one thing but taste is another. And when it came to taste the Tijuana Sunset was OMG….100% delicious!!! 😍😍😍. Tangy from the lime, a little sweet from the soda, a nice kick from the tequila and the touch of salt was GENIUS. I loved this so much I immediately made another which I garnished with a little slice of jalapeno. This made it even better!

I loved the Tijuana Sunset. I just wish it had a different name so there weren’t those expectations of what it was going to look like!

Wait up. Hold on. Do you think that by making the claim that it is a “sophisticated” take on the Tequila Sunrise that the authors are trying to say that the beautiful orange to deep red shading is somehow unsophisticated? Are they making fun of my love for a drink that looks pretty as well as tasting delish?

OMG…see what this book does? It makes me crazy! Or maybe that’s life after what now…seven weeks in iso?

Buenos Noches

Now this one looked the biz! It is a Mexican take on an Irish Coffee which is a drink I hold dear. And on paper it sounds delicious. Chilli infused tequila, cinnamon infused coffee…sign me up!

Okay, so truth be told. This was one of the worst things I have ever put in my mouth. Particularly because I had to wait 3 days for the tequila to infuse with the chipotle.

I actually cried after tasting this. Which I admit is an extreme reaction. But, at the moment, when our lives are so restricted, something that I was looking forward to for THREE days and which turned out to be a bitter disappointment might actually be worth a tear or two.

I felt this was bitter and flat. It lacked any sweetness to counteract the bitterness of the coffee and the heat of the chilli and had no zestiness to bring the bitter and hot flavours together.

I’m calling Goodnight Irene on the Buenos Noches.

But here’s that recipe. Just in case you have really repressed emotions and need to cry over something dumb instead of the horror that is the world as we know it.

Have a great week! Stay safe!

22
Apr
2020

Name Plates: Steak Diane

categories: Name Plates, Steak, United States of America

Hello people of the internet and welcome to another edition of “Name Plates.” This is where we take a look at the real-life people behind our favourite meals. Today we are looking at the classic American dish of Steak Diane.

What is Steak Diane?

Steak Diane is a panfried steak served with a sauce made from the pan juices from the steak, cream, brandy and Worcestershire sauce. Of course there are thousands of variations on this but if we hone it down to it’s core, this is what makes a Steak Diane.

Back in the day, the steak was dramatically flambeed at the table! No wonder it became so popular. Who doesn’t love a bit of theatre with their meal! How many over zealous patrons ended the night with burnt off eyebrows do you think? But hey, nothing speaks of a good night out like first degree burns right?

I did not flambe my sauce because I am a total klutz and the world is already going to hell. I don’t need to be setting my kitchen on fire as the cherry on top of that particular pile of woe.

It tasted pretty good regardless!

Who Was Diane?

There are hundreds of theories on the Diane that inspired the sauce which inspired the steak. One is that it was named after the young daughter of Chef Beniamino Schiavon who “invented” the dish at the Drake Hotel in Manhattan in 1948.

Another theory has the dish evolving from the Roman times where plates of game meat were often given in honour to the Goddess of the Hunt, Diana. Over time and in France, these became known as dishes prepared “a la Diane”. Soldiers stationed in France in World War I took versions of these dishes home and over time, Venison a la Diane became good old Steak Diane.

I actually believe that, in all probability, this is the origin of Steak Diane.

My Preferred Origin Story

I wanted to raise a less familiar theory, one that I found on this website.

Let’s take a little trip in the Wayback machine to London in 1938, specifically Mayfair, and even more specifically to a restaurant called Tony’s Grill. Head chef at Tony’s was the eponymous Tony Clerici.

September 30 1938 was a dark day for Alfred Duff Cooper (yes, I know he has a dumbarse name but bear with me on this, he’s one of the good guys). The Munich Agreement which allowed Hitler to “annex” Czechoslovakia was signed that day. War was averted but for people like our boy Duff, this was only giving licence to that Nazi madman.

He and his friends gathered at Tony’s Grill for a dinner and some talk of doom and gloom. I can almost guarantee that the phrase “thin end of the wedge” was used. More than once. Ditto “slippery slope”.

Recognising that the group were not in their usual jovial (ie big eating, big drinking, big tipping) mood, Tony Clerici wanted to inject some joy into the evening. He did so by preparing a dish in honour of Duff’s beautiful and glamourous wife, Lady Diana Cooper.

And voila, Steak Diane was born!

Is this the face that launched a million steaks? I really hope so!

Can we all forget about the other origin stories and enjoy Steak Diane as a celebration of anti-fascism?

The Recipe

I used the Steak Diane Recipe from the Australian Women’s Weekly Retro Cookbook. And I must say….I think I got a pretty close resemblance!

Here’s the recipe. I added a tsp of Dijon Mustard into my sauce as well as it appeared in a number of Sauce Diane recipes I looked at, even though it is not contained in the recipe below.

Variations

As with many of these classic recipes there are a millionty one recipes on the interwebs. Here are some variations to type not ingredients to the sauce:

Steak Diane Pie….ooh yeah, this is going on my winter bake list for sure!
Chicken Diane….just in case we want a change from steak!
And here’s one for the vegetarians…Mushrooms Diane

Modern Day Diane

As ever, I get to choose a modern-day person to whom I would dedicate a Steak Diane. This one was possibly the hardest one yet. The early runner was Diane Lane, who starred in one of the movies that shaped my childhood, The Outsiders. I ADORED the book of this film. Sodapop Curtis was one of the first loves of my life and I cried a river or two when (spoiler alert) Johnny died. Diane Lane is perfectly cast as the beautiful Cherry!

However, in the end, Diane Keaton pipped her at the post. What is not to love about Diane Keaton? She is an outstanding actress, a style icon, a director, producer, photographer, real estate developer…is there anything she cannot do? If anyone deserves an eponymous steak it is surely she.

The above picture is a scene from The Godfather which is our current film club pick. I am going to try to watch 1 (tonight) and 2 (tomorrow) before our meeting on Wednesday. Good thing I have my reduced working week day off on Wednesday in case that plan goes awry! I have never seen any of The Godfather films so this is a real knowledge gap for me. Such a knowledge gap that I had no idea that Diane Keaton was even in it! Okay, I have 6 and a half hours of movies to watch so I need to get moving.

Have a great week. Stay safe and stay gold!