The selection for March and April over at The Cookbook Guru was The Food Of Morocco by Paula Wolfert which really fits in with my explorations into Middle Eastern Food via Persiana and MENA.
First, the book is ENORMOUS!!!! If you dropped this on your foot, you would be in serious danger of breaking a toe. Or two. It was really quite difficult to choose the recipes to try, there were so many and so many that sounded delicious.
Second, it is beautiful – not just the recipes, the photography, the writing, everything about it is lovely. I would love to have this in my own collection as it is so well curated and contains so much of interest but sadly, it is quite expensive so, at the moment is just on the wishlist!
I have been sick for nearly a week now so I have left my run here a little late. Thankfully the anti-biotics have started to kick in and hopefully I can get this post out whilst it is still April somewhere in the world.
I have made four things from this book and whilst I would have loved to have a post for each, for the sake of brevity, I’m putting them all together so I can get something out before Christmas!!! I have also not included any recipes as that would have taken even more time but, if you like the look of anything let me know and I can send ’em through!
THE FOOD OF MOROCCO // BRIK WITH TUNA, CAPERS AND EGGS
I was not familiar with the brik, (pronounced breek) which is a Moroccan snack consisting of a very thin pastry called warqa wrapped around various fillings, one of which is this delicious but to me, uncommon, combination of tuna and egg.
Not surprisingly there was no warqa pastry at the local supermarket and because I was running so late on this, I could not shop for it so I used the much more readily available filo pastry for my briks. You can apparently also use spring roll wrappers, or if really brave, make your own warqa pastry.
So first up you saute up some onions, then add your tuna, capers, parsley and some parmesan cheese. And yup, this mix just on it’s own tastes AMAZING. I’m surprised there was any left to make the briks. Personally, I blame the hosts of reality tv cooking shows for constantly telling people to taste their food during cooking!
Then you make place the tuna mix on the pastry but make a little hole to hold the eggs. I don’t think it matters if it spills over a little like mine did.
Then you quickly seal this up and drop it into some hot oil to fry up – the idea being you want your pastry crispy and your egg still a little bit runny.
So, did I cook the perfect runny egg brik?
Sadly, no. My egg was cooked through. 🙁
This was not all bad though, it certainly made it easier to take the remainder for lunch the next day. And OMG, so tasty. I’ll definitely be trying this again and trying to nail that runny egg.
THE FOOD OF MOROCCO //POTATO TAGINE WITH OLIVES AND HARISSA
This tasted as good as it looks. And one for my vegan friends!!! The colours are so beautiful and the flavours blend together beautifully!
THE FOOD OF MOROCCO // THE BIRD THAT FLEW AWAY
This a lovely chickpea dish with a delightful name. Paula Wolfert explains that is it a “plat de pauvre” (a dish for the poor) that is made when you can’t afford to buy a chicken. It’s so good I think I would eat it regardless of whether I had a chicken or not!
THE FOOD OF MOROCCO INSPIRED // ARTICHOKE SALAD WITH ORANGE, LEAFY GREENS AND DATES.
A Spanish restaurant I am very fond of does a salad with oranges, artichokes and dates which is To. Die. For. In order to recreate it’s flavour, I used Paula Wolfert’s Orange, Leafy Green and Date Salad and added artichokes and some lemon and olive oil in the dressing. I think it worked really well and I loved the hint of orange flower water. It was not exactly my restaurant salad but it was pretty close. And look at how pretty it is!
This was an amazing book and I am so glad that The Cookbook Guru drew it to my attention. The next few months we will be cooking from a book by a true legend of Australian Cooking, Margaret Fulton. I can’t wait. And I promise to be a bit more timely!
The morning was humid and windy. Otherwise known as hell for allergies. My train was cancelled so I had to stand on the platform for 20 minutes waiting for the next one. In the humidity and wind. By the time the train finally came we were crammed in like sardines, my hair was frizzy from the humidity and my nose and eyes were streaming from the wind and the pollen / dust / mad air of Melbourne. Plus I’d left my book at home and someone had turned my charger off overnight so when I turned my phone on for entertainment it lasted about ten seconds before shutting down. No reading. No candy crush. Did I mention this was a Monday?
So I was jammed into the train, nose streaming. And I had no tissues. I always have tissues. Except when I don’t. I became one of those really annoying people who sniffle and snuffle on public transport. I hate those people. I think the only reason someone didn’t yell at me to “Stop that goddamn sniffing” was because my eyes were also streaming like mad and people probably thought I was crying.
Which I did later in the day when I dropped my lunch box and my delicious salad fell all over the ground. So, out to buy lunch and it was no longer hot and humid. It was pouring with rain. So I got soaked to the skin because, of course, I had no coat and no umbrella. I spent the afternoon shivering. By the time I got home, I was cold and grumpy and yes, still sniffing and all I wanted to do was get my dinner on, do my yoga podcast and collapse in front of My Kitchen Rules.
Harrrummmppphhhh…my soup calls for tomato paste. We always have tomato paste. Except when we don’t. I felt like crying again but subbed in some hefty swearing and a can of tomatoes and a couple of sun-dried tomatoes. And then I put my soup on and went upstairs to do my yoga pod.
It was now 7:02pm. MKR starts at 7:30. Which is fine. I do the YogaMazing podcast routines which are all about 20 minutes. So perfect timing really. Is it possible that one thing is going to work out for me today? I switch on the computer.
7:02 Windows is updating your computer.
7:10 Windows is still updating your computer
7:20 Windows is unfuckingbelievably still updating your computer.
The update finally finished at 7:28. I swear, it was as if they had timed it for maximum annoyance.
By now my little bit of grumpiness had turned into a full scale funk and a full blown cold. I stomped downstairs to turn on the telly and the twitter because that is now my default mechanism for watching My Kitchen Rules. Bravo MKR tweeters, you are the funniest and the best!!!
Not that I was thinking that then because I was in a pique with the world.
And then I got to the bottom step and thought “What is that gorgeous smell?”
And no, it was not the neighbour’s cooking something delish but MY chicken soup. My Libyan Chicken Soup with Thyme, or to be exact my Sharba Libiya bil Dajaj wa Alzatar. Or as I like to call it, the chicken soup of awesomeness.
This smelled wonderful. Exotic and fragrant with spices, it was instantly warming and uplifting. And it tasted amazing. Both soothing to my frayed nerves and bad temper and exciting and spicy to my tastebuds.
Talk about chicken soup for the soul. This was life affirming. One bowl of this and my fit of pique was lifted.
This was as easy as hell to cook. And all of the ingredients should be readily available. The recipe called for “orzo” which I also didn’t have so as well as the tomatoes I subbed in risoni. I have since found out these are the same thing. Who knew? Personally, I am going to start calling it by it’s Libyan name of Bird Tongues which manages to be both incredibly poetic, a perfect description and also, a teeny bit creepy. Oh, and the thyme featured below? Straight from my garden!!!
I found this recipe via a group I joined called MENA, the Middle East and North African cooking club. Every month the host chooses a soup, a main and a dessert from a country in the region and members can cook any or all of them. I have been loving cooking from Persiana, and was very keen to learn more about this region’s food and ingredients. And if this was anything to go by, bring it on.
The recipe except for the tweaks mentioned above is here:
Confession time. I have a massive girl crush on Sabrina Ghayour, author of Persiana. Not in some weird way, I just want us to be friends, maybe even best friends. Mainly so I could go round to her house and whilst we chatted about boys and bras, she could make me all the gorgeous things in this book. I would bring wine. Then I could sleep over and we could put curlers in our hair and have a pillow fight.
This book. OMG, this book. Opening this book was like falling in love. Seriously. The photography is amazing. This is hard core drool worthy food porn. Persiana is my easily my favourite cookbook of the year; it may well become my favourite ever (sorry Nigella, I’ve got a new bestie…)
Recipes marked to cook: 75
Yep, pretty much all of them.
I actually feel bad I haven’t made more things from it. Paleo got in the way. but as at 30 November, this is the tally.
p10 Broad Beans with Garlic Dill & Eggs (made)
Loved it. Except for double podding the broad beans which took forever!!! Tried it with edamame and it was not so good. Sadly, looks like I will be double podding for some time as this was amazing.
p41 Baked Eggs with Feta, Harissa, Tomato Sauce and Coriander (made)
Loved the flavour combination! This is pretty much my ideal meal. One dish. Eggs, Cheese, tomatoes, chilli.
p45Lahmacun (made)
This one didn’t do it for me. I like meat on my pizza to be quite chunky and even though I did not chop the meat through as much as Sabrina recommended it was still too paste like for me. Use this same mix and make tiny little meatballs to scatter over the top of the pizza base and you’d have a winner from me. On the other hand, he really liked it.
p46 Spiced Lamb Kefta
p48 Spice Salted Squid
p53 Eastern Style Focaccia
p55 Persian Flatbread / Naan Barbari
p60 Persian Bejewelled Rice / Morassa Polow
p 63 Persian Basmati Rice / Chelo (Made)
I love a claypot rice and this is very similar. Mine didn’t work out exactly as per the picture but I think it was an ok first attempt. And Sabrina does say even the experienced cook sometimes needs a bit of luck to pull this off.
Sabrina’s:
Mine:
p65 Rice With Lentils and Crispy Onions / Mojardara
p68 Spicy Prawn Rice / Maygoo Polow
p72 Lamb Biryani
p78 Spiced Vegetable Soup (Made)
Delicious!
p83 Persian Saffron Chicken, Fennel and Barberry Stew
p85 Chicken, Walnut and Pomegranate Stew / Khoresh-e-Fesenjan (Made)
This photo does not do justice to this delicious dish. Either in how good it tasted or how pretty it was. Sorry. But take my word for it. This was really good!
p88 Lamb Shank, Black Garlic and Tomato Tagine
p91 Persian Dried Lime, Lamb and Split Pea Stew / Khoresh – e – Gheymeh
p93 Seared Lamb and Apricot Stew
p94 Lamb, Butternut Squash, Prune and Tamarind Tagine
p96 Pomegranate Soup With Meatballs / Ash-e Anar
p99 Seafood and Saffron Stew
p104 Saffron and Rosemary Chicken Fillets
p109 Ras el Hanout Chicken Wraps
p110 Harissa and Preserved Lemon Roasted Poussins
p114 Saffron and Lemon Chicken / Joojeh Kabab
p117 Lamb and Sour Cherry Meatballs
p119 Mechouia-Style Lamb Leg with Cumin Dipping Salt
p120 Spiced Rack Of Lamb With Pomegranate Sauce
p122 Turkish Adana Kofte Kebabs
p125 Tray- Baked Rose Petal Lamb Chops With Chilli And Herbs
p127 Lamb and Pistachio Patties / Fistikli Kebap
p128 Spice Perfumed Shoulder of Lamb
p130 Seared Beef with Pomegranate and Balsamic Dressing
p135 Cod in Tamarind, Coriander and Fenugreek Seeds (made)
I made this during my weeks of Paleo. I just left out the flour and pinch of sugar from the original recipe. I don’t think the flour made much of a difference except for maybe bringing our the turmeric colour in the sauce, but my sauce was very tamarind tangy. Which I love. Even when I was a little girl, when my mum would make a curry I would dip a spoon in the tamarind and just eat it straight off the spoon. If you’re not equally minded, add the sugar! Also, we don’t have cod so I used monkfish. I loved this!!!
p136 Prawns With Sumac, Coriander, Lemon and Garlic
p138 Citrus Spiced Salmon
p140 Belly Stuffed Rainbow Trout / Mahi Shekampor
p143 Scallops And Shaved Fennel With Saffron, Honey, & Citrus Vinaigrette
p144 Za’atar Cod With Relish
p147 Bandari Monkfish Tails
p150 Blood Orange and Radicchio Salad
p152 Barley Salad With Griddled Broccoli and Za’Atar
p154 Radish, Cucumber and Red Onion Salad With Mint And Orange Blossom Dressing (Made)
Lovely!!! Fresh and Zingy!
p157 Puy Lentil And Quinoa Salad With Lentil And Sumac
p160 Tomato Salad With Pomegranate Molasses / Gavurdagi Salatasi
p163 Turkish White Bean Salad / Piyaz
p173 Chicken And Artichoke Salad With Yogurt Dressing
p176 Fennel And Apple Salad With Dill and Pomegranate Seeds
p178 Shirazi Salad (Made)
Totally Yum!!!!
p181 Red Rice Salad With Barberries, Grilled Vegetables And Toasted Almonds
p183 Fattoush Salad
P184 Chargrilled Aubergines With Saffron Yogurt Parsley and Pickled Chillies (Made)
The very first thing I made and one of my favourite things ever!
p186 Date And Tamarind Sauce
p193 Harissa Marinated Asparagus
p198 Butternut Squash With Pistachio, Pesto, Feta and Pomegranate Seeds
p201 Turmeric and Cumin Roasted Potatoes (Made)
I could not find the photo’s of these. They were pretty good though!
p204 Za’atar Roasted Squash With Spiced Yogurt And Pickled Chillies
P209 Spiced Carrot, Pistachio and Almond Cake With Rosewater Cream
OMG. One of the best things I have ever eaten. I got so giddy over this cake I tweeted Sabrina to tell her about it. She didn’t tweet back so maybe that best friends thing is a non-starter. However, in a year of good cakes, this and the Amanda Hesser Almond Cake are standout winners. This is how good this cake is….I cut some slices of this to take to work and I started eating the crumbs. Then I had a piece, Then another. I had three pieces of carrot cake for breakfast that morning and I am completely unrepentent. It’s that good. Also, the most compliments I have ever received from the work crew about my baking.
You MUST make this! Sorry for the shitty photo though. Too busy shoving this glorious thing into my face to take anything decent.
p210 Baklava
p216 Pistachio and Lemon Shortbreads
p217 Strawberry and Pineapple Carpaccio with Basil And Mint Sugars
p221 Cinnamon and Citrus Almond And Pastry Cigars
p223 Eastern Mess
p226 Pistachio, Honey And Orange Blossom Ice Cream
p229 Pistachio Rose And Rasberry Madeleines (Made)
Superb!
p232 Syrup Poached Apricots With Walnuts and Clotted Cream
I am so looking forward to cooking so much more from this!!! Let me know what you like on the list and I will cook it sooner!
You can find the recipes for a few of the things I have cooked and some on the list here:
If you have Persiana or you cook any of these recipes please let me know how they turned out, I would love to see them! And let me know if you love this book as much as I do!
Last week I mocked some of the food styling in The Hot Weather Cookbook, so in the interest of fair and unbiased reporting I thought it was only fair to show what I think is easily the best photo in the book. Not only that, I was so inspired by the photo I had plans to cook the exact meal as shown for a barbecue dinner we were having.
Why do I love this so much? First, I think it has a clean modern look to it. This would not look out-of-place in a current issue of Bon Appetit or Delicious magazine. Second, I love gingham. One of the reasons is that it evokes memories of summer, picnics by a river in the shade of a tree, the gingham table-cloth spread on the ground absolutely loaded with super tasty picnic food, the sound of birds and crickets chirping lazily in the background, the sun dappling through the leaves…In my mind picnics look like this. Thanks to the lovely Amber Clery from the Vintage Homeblog for her permission to use these gorgeous photos.
In reality, I remember having a picnic with my parents by a river. I went for a swim and got a leech on my leg. The sounds of that picnic weren’t so much the gentle noises of nature or the hushed sounds of silence but hysterical screaming and uncontrollable sobbing. I vastly prefer Amber’s version.
Apart from the gingham, the other things I liked in the photo from “The Hot Weather Cookbook” were those amazing looking kebabs and the saffron rice with juicy raisins that they are lying on top of. The legend for the picture told me that were Barbecued Lamb Sosaties accompanied by Carrot Salad and Cucumber Salad. No mention of the rice. I had never heard of a Sosatie before so I flipped to the glossary which told me that Sosaties were a:
“Cape Malay (South African) dish of curried meat, cooked in small pieces on a skewer”
So now, not only do these kebabs look delicious, they sound delicious. I was salivating in anticipation of finding out how to cook these delights because I thought they would reconfirm my position as queen of the barbecue. One of the first things I ever cooked for my family was a “Spicy Feta Burger”. I must have been eight. I didn’t even know what feta was but begged my mum to buy some so I could make these burgers. Some decades later we still make them. People invited to family barbecues demand them. In my family and circle of friends, they are legend. However, all empires fall and it had been quite some time since I had come up with some delectable barbecue goodness. I’ve rested on my feta burger laurels for far too long. The time was ripe to launch a new taste sensation.
In my mind, my spicy feta burgers were already singing that Coldplay song about “that was when I ruled the world”. My Barbecued Lamb Sosaties were running up and down flights of stairs and humming “The Eye of The Tiger.”
We’ll pause there and I’ll tell you about the rice with raisins. Remember how I said they weren’t mentioned in the picture tag? I searched for the recipe in index. Under R there are two entries:
Radish Salad, Cool
Rice Salad
I didn’t really know where else I might find the recipe for the rice with raisins (it was not the rice salad recipe listed). So I flicked through the entire book and found the recipe on page 64…well I found something on page 64 called Yellow Rice With Raisins. As it’s not name checked in the photo, I can’t be entirely sure it is the same recipe but given that what is pictured is yellow and it’s rice and it contains raisins I used my best Sherlock Holmesian powers of deduction and decided they were one and the same. I then went back and checked the recipe index. This time, I not only checked under R in case I had missed something in the vast number of recipes beginning with that letter. (I hadn’t.) I then checked Y…just in case. Not there either. I then checked every recipe in the index to see what exactly was listed for page 64. There’s a Barbecue Sauce which is actually on page 64. There is no mention of the Yellow Raisin Rice in the index at all. Grrr….
That annoyed me. It’s slapdash and surely someone in the editing process should have picked it up before the book went to print. Never mind, at least I could make it. After all, I had the recipe, even if it appeared to have been inserted into the book by stealth.
Ok, so the last time we saw the Barbecued Lamb Sosaties, they were fist pumping the air and claiming global victory in the barbecue stakes. I looked up Barbecued Lamb Sosaties in the index.
I started with L…not there.
S…not there either.
I tried B…I may was well not bothered.
I tried a lateral approach and looked under K for kebab and, harking back to the glossary definition, I looked under C (Curry and Cape Malay). I then looked through every other letter. There was no mention to the Barbecued Lamb Sosaties in the index. Double Grrr!
But the rice recipe wasn’t in the index either. No point in getting upset. So, in the spirit of keeping calm and carrying on, I flicked through “The Main Course” section of the book.
Nothing.
I flipped back to the picture. Those kebabs look hearty but I thought that maybe they are meant to be a first course, like satay sticks in an Asian restaurant.
They weren’t in the first course section either.
I then looked through the entire book.
Zippedy doo dah.
I then looked through the entire book again, this time focussing on the page numbers. (This was a second-hand book and, given the awesomeness of the Barbecued Lamb Sosatie, someone may have ripped the page out to keep it for posterity).
Every page was accounted for.
THE RECIPE FOR WHAT LOOKED LIKE THE MOST AWESOME DISH IN THE BOOK….WAS NOT IN THE BOOK.
If that looks like I am yelling, it’s because I am. It’s actually a lot nicer than what came out of my mouth when I initially made this discovery. I probably wouldn’t be allowed to print exactly what I said. It’s more than likely illegal in some countries and frowned upon in most others.
I could give you a recipe for Barbecued Lamb Sosaties. I (eventually) found a number of them on Google. Instead, I was so annoyed with the HotWeather Cookbook, I am going to give you the original recipe for the spicy feta burgers. This recipe is so old now, it comes from a time where they didn’t quite know how to spell spicy. These are awesome and you should all make them immediately. (Sorry it’s a bit crooked, that is literally the way it is stuck to the page in the family recipe compendium).
Just to top off a few days where recipes from the past have really let me down, it is also wrong.
I defy anyone to make 12 burgers out of 50g of minced steak. Unless of course they happen to be pixies. (To anyone not familiar with the metric system, as a point of comparison, I just weighed an egg from my fridge. It came in at 64g. )
I used 500g of mince when I made the burgers this time and made 12 decent sized burgers. I left all other amounts as stated.
This can also be very much treated as a base recipe. For instance, this time round I added some dried chilli flakes and some chopped up coriander. You could use mint or parsley or basil. Pinenuts in the mix are fabulous! You can also use lamb mince instead of steak for another variation in flavour.
Out of sheer spite I also didn’t make the rice or either of the salads from The Hot Weather Cookbook. I made a gorgeous carrot salad inspired by a recipe from Gourmande in the Kitchen. This recipe is amazing…quite possibly the most vibrant delicious taste sensation I have had all year. The orange flower water in the dressing is a stroke of genius! The original recipe required watercress. I tried three local green grocers and was advised that due to the hot weather, we are suffering watercress drought. I used rocket and it was lovely. I will definitely also try it with watercress as soon as I can get my hands on some!
The cumin and the orange flower water actually go very nicely with the lamb and feta to create a lovely Middle Eastern vibe to this meal.
I made a really quick cucumber salad to go with this, just sliced cucumber, a sprinkle of cayenne pepper and chives, and a squeeze of lemon. I had a small bowl of pomegranate molasses as a condiment for the burgers.
Et voila! Here is my Not The Hot Weather Cookbook Middle East Feast!
This will more than likely be my last post before the New Year as I need to focus on cooking and other things related to the season for the next few days.
Best wishes to all for a safe and happy Christmas and a joyous New Year.